D'Oliveiras, Sercial Vintage:1999 red roses and lavender over

red roses and lavender over a core of plum preserves

The balance between the varieties—and the classic push/pull of sweet and savory—is more harmonious this year than in any I can remember

and not excessive

the 2012 is a terrific choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years

D'Oliveiras, Sercial Vintage:1999 red roses and lavender overMid amber brown all three Sercial and Terrantez dOliveiras wines are notably deeper colour than four other Madeiras tasted at the same time. A slightly reticent nose, with cola nuts, chocolate, Christmas spices, cooked orange and a touch of polished wood. Noticeable sweetness on the palate entry, giving way to lively acidity and a touch of phenolic chew. Long, toasty, nutty finish. Makes up in length what it perhaps gives away in finesse. (TJ)